Filed under: Gadgets
K40 Calibre Remote Bluetooth Enabled Radar and Laser Protection System - Autoblog REVIEW
When I heard that K40 had a new product in the pipeline, I made sure a press release was sent to Autoblog the day it was officially announced and was utterly shocked to learn that Bluetooth technology was somehow involved. Did government scientists working on a secret project invent a new type of Bluetooth that can detect radar from great distances as well as untether my keyboard and mouse from the computer? Not quite.
Read on for the first part of Autoblog's review of the K40 Calibre, complete with install pics.
K40's Calibre System takes all the fundamental components of the company's previous Undetectable System, a pair of
front- and rear-mounted radar receivers and optional laser defusers, and uses Bluetooth technology to create a closed
network through which each component can communicate with the Interior Network Module, otherwise known as the brains of
the operation.
The significance of adding Bluetooth to the mix can best be appreciated when considering K40's target audience. These
are well-to-do types who have a high-end auto or two in their garage and are more inclined to choose a custom-installed
remote radar system with externally mounted receivers and internally mounted audio and visual warnings than a portable
radar one that mounts on the windshield. In the past custom installing a remote system involved interfering with a
car's electrical system and drilling holes in your firewall to run cables, most likely voiding your warranty in the
process.
Hopefully the advantages of using a Bluetooth network are beginning to become obvious: no drilling holes, no voiding
warranties. It's possible to install the entire system without a drill in such a way it can be removed later on, at the
end of a lease perhaps, leaving behind no trace of itself.
K40's website nearly crashed from excess traffic the day Autoblog and Engadget simultaneously posted news on the
Calibre System, so we have all of you to thank for receiving a unit to review. Normally K40 remote systems are
purchased at the dealer or along with a new car or high-end audio shops and custom installed by professionals, but I
was assured I'd be able to handle the installation myself despite my relative lack of experience.
Inside the nicely packaged boxes for both the
Calibre system and accompanying Laser Defuser are all of the system's components as well as a set of installation
instructions and wiring schematics. The major components include a front and rear radar receiver, the Interior Network
Module attached to a small speaker, two small LEDs (dash-mounted pods are also available), the Laser Defuser with a
universal mounting bracket and license plate mount, as well as all the various mounting hardware. While a number of
self-tapping screws, nuts and bolts are included, K40 also supplies zip-ties in case you want your installation to be
less permanent. This is a great idea as not only can the system be removed if you're returning a leased vehicle, you
may just not want to include your premium $1,699.95 (price for Calibre DL including custom installation, not including
Laser Defuser) remote radar protection system in the sale of your used luxury car.
I don't plan on posting a how-to on the installation since most end-users will never encounter the process, but I will
touch on the high and low points. The lucky automobile on which the K40 Calibre is being installed is my trusty steed,
a 1999 Oldsmobile Alero. It's not the ride K40 intended the Calibre to protect, but one of their test vehicles in the
development process was an Alero so it's not the first time.
I began the installation with the Interior
Network Module (shown right), which involved popping the interior fuse panel and the plastic cover underneath my dash.
I was extremely pleased that the installation didn't require the removal of the entire dash, as that would have been a
level of invasiveness I didn't want to approach. The most difficult part of the installation early on was keeping the
wiring straight, but the schematic is color coded and going slowly ensured I never "crossed streams", so to
speak.
The system I received included the LEDs
rather than the dash-mounted pods, which had me very concerned beforehand. The pair of LEDs need to be custom installed
in the dash in an inconspicuous but visible place. I had a grand plan to remove and disassemble the gauge pod so I
could drill two holes near the speedometer and tach to mount the LEDs. After backing myself into a corner with that
plan I called K40 and told them my progress, which was met with a few chuckles. It turns out on an Alero the frame
around the gauge pod can be popped off and two holes quickly drilled in either side, which places the LEDs right next
to the steering column in plain view. Duh. So that ten-minute job took an hour and a half.
Next I moved to the front of the vehicle where both the front radar receiver and Laser Defuser would be installed. I
found a great place for the radar receiver on the driver's side in one of the holes left for a fog lamp. Fortunately I
was able to mount it on and behind some plastic, which should help keep the elements out. The units appear to be completely
sealed, but why tempt fate? The radar receivers can actually operate through up to ¼-inch thick plastic, so it's
totally fine that they'll never see the light of day.
The installation of the Laser Defuser was a bit more difficult and reminded me why K40 likes these things to be
installed by a pro. Unfortunately my license plate holder isn't removable, which meant I couldn't use K40's license
plate mount with the defuser. That was a bummer as the installation would have taken ten minutes and been done
correctly if that were the case. Instead I used the universal mounting bracket to secure it to a piece of bodywork
running the width of the front end just below and behind the license plate. I thought I was cool for my clever mounting
location, but the guys at K40 reminded me that where and at what angle the Laser Defuser is mounted is crucial. Being
below and behind the license plate means that the effectiveness of the defuser will be reduced dramatically. Really the
ideal place for it is the license plate mount, as that ensures the unit is level and a laser beam will hit the defuser
at the same time or before it hits the plate. I plan on heavily modifying the license plate mount so I can move my
defuser to that location soon, but for now it remains behind and below the plate.
The rear receiver I actually installed on a
separate day, and while it might appear to be the most difficult install it was actually the easiest. I was an old-hat
at custom remote radar detection system installs by this time, so the mounting and wiring of the rear receiver was no
trouble. Though the service guys at K40 told me they had installed their rear unit on the frame using long zip ties, I
decided I wanted my receiver to be rear and center right behind the bumper plastic. I removed the rear bumper, which
wasn't that hard, found a cozy little place where the receiver could be mounted, and popped the bumper back on.
Power for each of the system's components is siphoned off from other components in the car that are turned on with a
turn of the ignition key. In the rear, for instance, I spliced into a wire providing power for the rear taillamps, only
after using a voltmeter to make sure I had power when the car is on and no power when it's turned off.
Though the system comes with most of the hardware required, I did find myself using a few things that weren't
included. Since splicing and connecting two wires together is required at times, I found a neat little plastic device
(don't know its name) that eliminates the need for wiring stripping, wire twisting or electrical tape. You just insert
the wire you're tapping into the side of this piece, the wire that needs power into a little hole and use a pair of
pliers to squeeze it all together. A metal piece punctures the tapped wire and makes contact with the other, securing
them both and creating a solid connection. I also had to get power straight from the fuse box for the front radar
receiver and Interior Network Module, which I achieved by jamming the bare wire into the socket with the fuse. I've
already purchased an Add-A-Circuit that will make this connection cleaner and more secure, but it would have been nice
if it were included.
With the installation complete I turned the
key of my car and was greeted by a flash of the LEDs, a little chirp and husky voice that said, "K40 On". The remote
for the Calibre system is perhaps my favorite part, which is a good thing since it's the only component the end-user
actually deals with on a daily basis. It can be used to change the system to Highway Mode (most sensitive), City Mode
(selectively sensitive) and to turn it off. You can also mute the system or change the volume between a high and low
setting, as well as turn the voice off.
I've only had the K40 Calibre installed completely for a few days now and my initial impressions are very positive.
Perhaps I have a great appreciation for its conspicuousness since I actually installed it, but I love knowing there are
expensive pieces of radar detection and laser defusing equipment installed on my car that are constantly communicating
with each other through a closed Bluetooth network, and all that I see are two little blue LEDs. It's an extremely
non-demanding end user experience, which I image is what the rich and famous among us go for.
I'll be swinging by my favorite speed traps and driving by the local area malls to test the performance of the K40
Calibre in the field, as well as how it fares against false alerts.
If you have any specific questions about the system, ask them in the comments section and we'll get an answer for
you.
Until then my right foot's going to be planted against the floor.
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
ernie 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
What does each LED mean? I assume one means the system is on, and maybe the second means its actively jamming the cops or something?
Reply
John Neff 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
The LED on the left is hooked up with the front radar receiver and the one of the right is hooked up with the rear. If the system detects radar from the front the left one starts blinking at a rate indicating how weak or strong the signal is (fast rate if it's strong and close, slow if it's weak and far away). In the event of either an instant-on from a radar gun or a shot from a laser gun, both light up and the system sounds off loudly to warn you. Audible chirps accompany the LED lights going off too in the same manner, fast chirps for close signals and slow ones for weak signals.
I'll get more into the operation of the system in my follow up post.
Reply
Rollie 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
John Neff- The hidden positions of both the front, and rear sensors, ignore the premise that the higher the mount point on the vehicle, the better the chances of early radar detection. I realize the mounting points chosen were selected to make use of the bluetooth technology. Above the winshield rearview mirror location for forward detection, with a high rearwindow location for the rearward detector would make for the best possible early warning. Seconds count.
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TE 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
I believe the "neat little plastic device" you are referring to is called a "vampire tap" or "piercing tap"... because it pierces the wire... much like a vampire... anyway, they were commonly used in the crazy heydays of coxial computer networking, but have been available for lots of types of wiring: power, communications, etc...
Reply
John Neff 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
I've also read, however, that some automakers are using tints in windshields that contain metallic elements in them and that this renders dash-mounted units unreliable. This practice is probably only in the higher-end automobiles, but that's the K40's target market.
Reply
tp 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
I prefer stealth modding V1 with remote display. Lot cheaper and I would bet much better detection.
Reply
Todd Allen 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
I still have yet to see the advantage to that V1 stealth install... you still have the unit up on your windshield.. what good does a remote display do? They should make a version of the V1 that has its sensors wirelessly elsewhere like the K40 so the unit can be hidden down in the console.
Reply
Mike O'Connor 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
This radar detector/laser jammer system did not get a good review on at least one site:
http://www.radarbusters.com/landing/k40-calibre.asp
Reply
John Neff 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
Yeah, I read that review and have to completely disagree with it. I'm not a retired cop or anything, but what they were saying about the K40 overheating is ridiculous and their results go completely against my own experience with the system in both a controlled test environment and on the road. I imagine he installed the unit incorrectly, as placement of the various components is key. That's why K40 has professionals do it because otherwise DIYers would be installing the systems incorrectly and getting tickets left and right, which, because of K40's no-ticket guarantee, they would have to pay for. K40 hasn't gone out of business from paying tickets, so I would say the system actually does work as claimed when installed correctly.
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Rob C 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
I would not trust radarbusters.com at all. Until they have video proof of the systems in operation, then I will never listen to what they say on the site. 90% of the site looks like they are just trying to sell different radar detectors, in which I wouldn't trust to begin with. They are just sellouts in my opinion. They don't even give one look at the V1 and just bash it left and right. I have owned a V1 ever since after my first speeding ticket and lets just say I haven't gotten one since.
As for the K40, I like the setup minus the flashing LEDs. For 1700 dollars I would expect something along an LCD panel or a wiring harness to integrate with a certain CD player, or even provide a CD player with it. We are talking about 1700 dollars here folks. Also, can you mount the brain through bluetooth to a laptop/PDA? That would be a deciding factor for me.
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Matt 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
Anyone know if in this unit is upgradeable? say i want to add an extra laser module in a different location in addition to the one by the plate. . . being bluetooth i'm sure it could be done, it would only depend on the brains capabillity to recieve and process both streams.
it would be great though if they sold different 'packages' with upgrade modules for later on. of course at 1700 bucks it'll be a while before the price drops to the average consumer level purchase range, leaving me out for that time, but it would be nice if they could modularize it for us custom tweakers out there.
Reply
Eric 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
John,
Just a comment on your plastic splice connectors, also called "scotchlocks". These things are the bane of all wiring engineers everywhere. While they may simplify installations for those who are not adept with a soldering gun, they definitely should not be used for automotive wiring systems. Since the purpose of the insulation is to protect the wiring from corrosion due to exposure from the elements, you have rendered it useless by installation of these "wonderful" devices. I'll guarantee that within a year, you'll find corrosion at those locations that has begun to wick through the harness. Do yourself and others a favor and promote soldering and heat shrink tubing with integral sealer. It is the only way to join automotive wiring.
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Max 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
Even though this one requires more installation work, I wonder how the Escort SR series of detectors stack up against the K40. Its roughly the same price, but isn't bluetooth equipped.
most of my friends have escorts. My roommate has the escort 8500 and he says if you get tagged w/ laser... you're done.
http://www.passportsr1.com/srx.htm
It'd be cool if autoblog can talk with escort and see if they'll let them review this product.
Come on Autoblog!
Reply
Zack 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
I've owned many detectors and I've always liked how much better K40 looks than anything else. Since they all pretty much give the same warning time (well...plus or minus a second or two), it comes down to features, operating ease, and appearance.
With all the damn engine panels now, not to mention how stuffed engine bays are, the Calibre system sounds like a great idea. Hope Autoblog does a road test report soon as I'm eyeing a Z06 'vette and would definitely need this K40!
Reply
Bill 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
In regards to Mike's comment about radarbusters.com, I think this link should tell you all you need to know about Radar Roy's credibility:
http://www.skyreport.com/viewskyreport.cfm?ReleaseID=501
There are also some stories about him in the Arizona Republic newspaper in their archieves section. The guy is a convicted felon in Arizona. I wonder if that's why he's "retired"?
Reply
Bill 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
In regards to Mike's comment about radarbusters.com, I think this link should tell you all you need to know about Radar Roy's credibility:
http://www.skyreport.com/viewskyreport.cfm?ReleaseID=501
There are also some stories about him in the Arizona Republic newspaper in their archieves section. The guy is a convicted felon in Arizona. I wonder if that's why he's "retired"?
Reply
Bill Jones 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
in regards to TE's comment (#4), at the distance police hit you with radar , a quarter mile or 1500 ft, the radar beam is wide enough to cover the entire car. so the best placement for the receivers is under the bumper because that is the easiest and most stealth install. the reason portables should be mounted as high as possible is because of sun reflection off the hood (which is affected by the car's color) and other road elements. portable and remote radar detectors are not comparable as far as placement is concerned.
Reply
Bill Jones 11:07PM (12/18/2005)
in regards to TE's comment (#4), at the distance police hit you with radar , a quarter mile or 1500 ft, the radar beam is wide enough to cover the entire car. so the best placement for the receivers is under the bumper because that is the easiest and most stealth install. the reason portables should be mounted as high as possible is because of sun reflection off the hood (which is affected by the car's color) and other road elements. portable and remote radar detectors are not comparable as far as placement is concerned.
Reply